Produzione di abbigliamento in Lesotho - Clean Clothes Campaign

["Monti Ersilia" <ersilia.monti at mclink.it>]

PRODUZIONE DI ABBIGLIAMENTO IN LESOTHO - IL CASO HUDSON BAY COMPANY - Clean
Clothes Campaign

Anche l'Africa e' un grande produttore di abbigliamento per l'esportazione.
Pensiamo a paesi come la Tunisia, il Marocco, l'isola Maurizio (Mauritius),
il Madagascar. Meno conosciuto ai consumatori italiani e' il Lesotho,
piccolo paese di poco piu' di 2 milioni di abitanti che produce quasi
esclusivamente per il Nordamerica in condizioni di lavoro fra le peggiori al
mondo.
(richiesta di azione urgente pervenuta da Maquila Solidarity Network,
Canada - email: info at maquilasolidarity.org)

Il Lesotho costituisce un'enclave all'interno del Sudafrica, non possiede
risorse minerarie, meta' della sua popolazione vive al di sotto della soglia
di poverta', ma l'esenzione dal sistema di quote e di dazi all'importazione
in vigore negli Stati Uniti continua ad attrarre un gran numero di
investitori stranieri desiderosi di aggirare le quote imposte ai propri
paesi o a quelli in cui operano. Negli ultimi trent'anni, il Lesotho
National Development Corporation, ente parastatale per lo sviluppo
industriale, ha facilitato gli investimenti di decine di imprese straniere
nei settori produttivi piu' disparati, dalla fabbricazione di ombrelli,
mattoni e componenti di automobili, alla produzione di farmaci e
abbigliamento. Nel periodo dell'apartheid erano le imprese sudafricane a
dominare l'economia del Lesotho nel tentativo di sfuggire alle sanzioni
economiche imposte al loro paese. Negli anni Novanta, sono cresciuti
notevolmente gli investimenti nell'industria dell'abbigliamento con la
comparsa sulla scena di imprenditori taiwanesi interessati a insediarsi in
paesi con  bassi costi di produzione. Da questo punto di vista il Lesotho
esercita sicuramente un forte potere di attrazione. Fra i vantaggi, oltre
alle esportazioni non contingentate, alcuni imprenditori indicano il basso
costo di una manodopera ben addestrata e istruita, l'assenza di un sindacato
forte, leggi del lavoro che favoriscono gli investitori e un sistema
politico-sociale sufficientemente stabile.

Nel 2001 sono state condotte due indagini sulle condizioni di lavoro nell'
industria dell'abbigliamento per l'esportazione del Lesotho. La prima
realizzata da SOMO, autorevole centro di ricerca olandese sul comportamento
delle imprese multinazionali, e dal South African Trade Union Research
Project (TURP), programma di ricerca afferente al Dipartimento di sociologia
dell'Universita' di Natal in Sudafrica (vedi www.cleanclothes.org); la
seconda realizzata dal Dipartimento del lavoro del governo del Lesotho e dal
Lesotho Clothing and Allied Workers Union (LECAWU), sindacato nazionale. Da
queste indagini emergono numerose violazione dei diritti dei lavoratori; per
esempio, quote di produzione individuali eccessive, obbligo a svolgere
straordinari spesso non pagati il fine settimana, retribuzioni insufficienti
o al di sotto dei minimi legali, repressione sindacale, uscite di sicurezza
chiuse a chiave, nessuna protezione contro gli infortuni, divieto per le
donne incinte di lavorare sedute, umilianti perquisizioni corporali,
tribunali del lavoro compiacenti verso gli investitori stranieri.

IL CASO HUDSON BAY COMPANY

Nell'ottobre 2001, l'Ethical Trading Action Group (ETAG), coordinamento
canadese di gruppi di base e associazioni, ha sottoposto i risultati delle
due indagini alla piu' grande catena di distribuzione del Canada, la Hudson
Bay Company (HBC) che si rifornisce dalla Sun Textiles, una delle fabbriche
analizzate dai ricercatori. Qui, agli abusi gia' citati si aggiunge il
licenziamento di una decina di lavoratori per avere contravvenuto al divieto
di indossare berretti con la sigla del sindacato. La Hudson Bay accetta di
far svolgere un'ispezione ma rifiuta di tener fede alla promessa di
informare ETAG dei risultati e degli interventi correttivi programmati. Ci
sono inoltre fondati motivi per ritenere che la catena di distribuzione
voglia semplicemente disfarsi del suo scomodo fornitore. Agli inizi di marzo
ETAG rende pubblici i risultati di una terza indagine che ha commissionato a
TURP con riferimento alle condizioni di lavoro alla Sun Textiles e a due
altri fornitori della Hudson Bay Company in Lesotho (vedi
www.maquilasolidarity.org) che confermano cio' che era gia' emerso dalle due
indagini precedenti.

PARTECIPIAMO ALLA CAMPAGNA INTERNAZIONALE INVIANDO IL SEGUENTE FAX / EMAIL
A HUDSON BAY COMPANY (con copia a The Maquila Solidarity Network -
info at maquilasolidarity.org)

David Crisp, Senior Vice President
Human Resources
Hudson's Bay Company
#500 - 401 Bay St.
Toronto, ON
M5H 2Y4
Fax: (416) 861-4720
Email: david.crisp at hbc.com

Dear Mr. Crisp:

I am writing in response to reports of sweatshop abuses at three of your
company's supply factories in Lesotho. I understand that on October 23, 2001
your company promised the Ethical Trading Action Group (ETAG) that you would
verify whether labour rights violations were taking place at the Sun
Textiles factory and report back promptly on the steps you would be taking
to help improve conditions.

I am appalled to learn that after more than four months, your company has
still not shared that report with ETAG, and that you are now giving
indications that you might cut and run from the factory rather than work
with the supplier and the Lesotho garment workers union to fix the problem.
Cutting and running will certainly not benefit the workers at Sun Textiles,
many of whom participated in an Hudson's Bay-sponsored audit of factory
conditions. Those workers who were brave enough to tell the truth about
factory conditions should not be further punished for doing so.

Now that sweatshop abuses have also been identified at two additional HBC
supply factories in Lesotho, I would hope that your company would take a
very different approach to dealing with those violations. A more effective
approach would include consultation with ETAG and the garment workers union
in Lesotho on problems identified in the factories and how to most
effectively intervene to improve conditions. It would also include public
reports on progress made in achieving compliance with local labour laws
andthe HBC code of conduct.

I would strongly urge your company to make every effort to work with these
three suppliers to eliminate worker rights violations, to consult with the
Ethical Trading Action Group and the Lesotho Clothing and Allied Workers
Union on possible steps to improve conditions at the factory, and to provide
regular progress reports to stakeholders, shareholders, the affected
workers, their union, and the public.

I look forward to receiving your prompt reply to my letter,
includinginformation on the steps your company is taking to address these
serious allegations of worker rights abuses, in a manner that does not cause
further harm to the workers whose rights are already being violated.

Yours truly,
(NOME, COGNOME ED EVENTUALE ORGANISMO DI RIFERIMENTO)

TRADUZIONE SINTETICA DEL TESTO DA INVIARE

Scrivo in merito ai risultati degli studi sulle condizioni di lavoro
effettuati presso tre dei vostri fornitori in Lesotho. Vi eravate impegnati
con l'Ethical Trading Action Group a verificare le contestazioni sollevate e
a rendere noti i risultati e le misure correttive da adottare. Apprendo ora
che dopo oltre quattro mesi cio' non e' avvenuto e vi sono indicazioni da
parte vostra dell'intenzione di togliere le commesse alla Sun Textiles
anziche' ricercare delle soluzioni con il vostro fornitore e il sindacato
dei lavoratori. Una simile decisione avrebbe l'unico risultato di
danneggiare i lavoratori della Sun Textiles, molti dei quali hanno
collaborato con fiducia con i vostri ispettori. Poiche' sono stati accertati
abusi anche presso altri due vostri fornitori, mi auguro che vogliate
finalmente affrontare il problema in modo serio coinvolgendo ETAG, il
sindacato del Lesotho e i vostri fornitori nella ricerca delle soluzioni piu
' adegute e rendendo pubblici i passi intrapresi. Attendo vostre notizie nel
breve periodo.

--------------------
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Campaign, inviate un messaggio a :
ersilia.monti at mclink.it

Ersilia Monti
(Coordinamento lombardo nord/sud del mondo - Rete di Lilliput Nodo di
Milano)
P.le Governo Provvvisorio 6
20127 Milano
tel.02-26140345
email: ersilia.monti at mclink.it
-------------------

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: owner-cleanclothes at xs4all.nl [mailto:owner-cleanclothes at xs4all.nl]
Inviato: mercoledì 13 marzo 2002 10.03
Oggetto: [cleanclothes] urgent action on Hudson Bay company


Tell Canada's Hudson's Bay Company:
DON'T CUT AND RUN; HELP ELIMINATE SWEATSHOP ABUSES IN LESOTHO

The following Urgent Action Alert is being distributed by the CCC at the
request of Canada's Maquila Solidarity Network with the question to write a
letter to Hudson bay Company:

On October 23, 2001, Canada's anti-sweatshop coalition, the Ethical Trading
Action Group (ETAG), presented Canada's oldest and largest department store
chain, the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC), with two reports documenting serious
worker rights abuses at Sun Textiles, an HBC supply factory in the Southern
African country of Lesotho. The first report was based on a joint study by
SOMO and the South African Trade Union Research Project (TURP). The second
report was based on a joint investigation by two departments of the Lesotho
government and the Lesotho Clothing and Allied Workers Union (LECAWU).

The Hudson's Bay promised to investigate the situation and report back to
ETAG on actions it was taking to correct the problems. Over four months
later, the HBC is refusing to give ETAG a report on its findings or on how
it is addressing the worker rights violations. Instead, the HBC sent ETAG a
copy of a letter addressed to another organization indicating it may be
cutting off the Sun Textiles factory and running away from the problem.

No information. No explanation. No further consultation.

On March 1, ETAG released a third report documenting continuing sweatshop
abuses at Sun Textiles and at two additional Hudson's Bay supply factories
in Lesotho owned by Nien Hsing. The report prepared by the Trade Union
Research Project (TURP), at ETAG's request, includes worker allegations of
physical and verbal abuse and sexual harassment, emergency exits locked
during working hours, compulsory overtime that stretches the workweek to
seven days and up to 75 hours, wages lower than the prevailing industry
wage of US$51 a month, child labour, pregnant women forced to stand
throughout the workday, harassment and discrimination against union
members, and firings of workers for wearing union caps.

The three factories profiled in the report -- Sun Textiles, Nien Hsing
International, and C&Y Garments -- produce private label and licensed brand
clothing for Zellers, a retail chain wholly owned by the Hudson's Bay
Company. The factories also reportedly produce clothes for other major
retailers, including Kmart, Gap and Sears Roebuck.

To view the ETAG/TURP report and background documents, visit:
www.maquilasolidarity.org.

REQUESTED ACTION
Please write to the Hudson's Bay today. Urge them to NOT cut and run from
Sun Textiles or their other supply factories in Lesotho. Tell them to work
with their suppliers and the garment workers union in Lesotho to bring
their suppliers into compliance with local labour law and the HBC Code of
Conduct.

Send faxes and e-mails to:

David Crisp, Senior Vice President
Human Resources
Fax: (416) 861-4720, e-mail: david.crisp at hbc.com

SAMPLE LETTER
(Please write your own, and send copy to the Maquila Solidarity Network:
info at maquilasolidarity.org)

David Crisp, Senior Vice President
Human Resources
Hudson's Bay Company
#500 - 401 Bay St.
Toronto, ON
M5H 2Y4
Fax: (416) 861-4720

Dear Mr. Crisp:

I am writing in response to reports of sweatshop abuses at three of your
company's supply factories in Lesotho. I understand that on October 23,
2001 your company promised the Ethical Trading Action Group (ETAG) that you
would verify whether labour rights violations were taking place at the Sun
Textiles factory and report back promptly on the steps you would be taking
to help improve conditions.

I am appalled to learn that after more than four months, your company has
still not shared that report with ETAG, and that you are now giving
indications that you might cut and run from the factory rather than work
with the supplier and the Lesotho garment workers union to fix the problem.
Cutting and running will certainly not benefit the workers at Sun Textiles,
many of whom participated in an Hudson's Bay-sponsored audit of factory
conditions. Those workers who were brave enough to tell the truth about
factory conditions should not be further punished for doing so.

Now that sweatshop abuses have also been identified at two additional HBC
supply factories in Lesotho, I would hope that your company would take a
very different approach to dealing with those violations. A more effective
approach would include consultation with ETAG and the garment workers union
in Lesotho on problems identified in the factories and how to most
effectively intervene to improve conditions. It would also include public
reports on progress made in achieving compliance with local labour laws and
the HBC code of conduct.

I would strongly urge your company to make every effort to work with these
three suppliers to eliminate worker rights violations, to consult with the
Ethical Trading Action Group and the Lesotho Clothing and Allied Workers
Union on possible steps to improve conditions at the factory, and to
provide regular progress reports to stakeholders, shareholders, the
affected workers, their union, and the public.

I look forward to receiving your prompt reply to my letter, including
information on the steps your company is taking to address these serious
allegations of worker rights abuses, in a manner that does not cause
further harm to the workers whose rights are already being violated.

Yours truly,

Clean Clothes Campaign
PO Box 11584
1001 GN Amsterdam
The Netherlands
tel: + 31 20 4122785
fax: + 31 20 4122786
e-mail:ccc at xs4all.nl

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